The Friendly Builder

Repair a plaster wall

2007-01-04

Remove any loose or damaged plaster and chamfer the edges with the side of the steel float.

Dampen the area with water to which a little PVA has been added.

Put water in the bucket and then add plaster a little at a time, stirring all the time. When the mix is stiff it is ready for use.

Spread the plaster over the area using the steel float. Keep it slightly higher than the surrounding plaster. Wash the tools and wait.

Use the brush to splash a little water onto the new plaster and smooth with the float. Brush around the edge of the repair with a little water. Clean the surrounding wall with a damp sponge. Wash the tools and wait.

Repeat this process until the new plaster is flush with the existing finish and appears slightly shiney. Remember to keep washing your tools.

Hanging a door

2007-02-20

Place the door roughly in the frame with the hinge side tight against the frame. Mark the bottom edge parallel with the floor. Trim with the circular saw using the straight edge clamped to the door to act as a saw guide. Now replace the door and mark the top edge level with the frame.

The next job is to fit the hinges which is covered in the hinges section.

When the hinges are fitted fix the door in place using one screw in each hinge. Adjust the gap between the door and the frame on the hinge side so that the gap is about the thickness of a fifty pence piece and paralell with the frame. This is done by either cutting out a deeper rebate for the hinges or by adding packing pieces between the door and the hinge ( strips of cornflakes packet are good for this ).

Close the door onto the door stop and mark the opening edge of the door. Remove the door and trim it to fit the opening again leaving a fifty pence gap. Recheck the top and bottom gaps and trim if necessary.

Fit remaining screws. You can adjust the door up or down slightly by the position of the screws in the hinges. Put the screw at the top of the hinge hole and the door will lift, at the bottom and the door will lower.

Finally chamfer all edges with a smoothing plane.

Fitting hinges

2007-02-20

Open hinge and place upside down on edge of door with the barrel hard against the edge. Mark round the hinge tongue with a pencil. Remove enough wood with the chisel to leave the hinge tongue flush with the the door surface.

A router can also be used to create the hinge rebate. The rounded corners will need to be finished off with a chisel.

Position the door in the door frame and mark and cut rebates in the frame using the same technique.

Fitting locks

2007-02-20

Repairing a plasterboard wall

2007-01-01

Cut away damaged plasterboard with a pad saw or a serrated knife. Cut a piece of board slightly bigger than the hole and slide in behind wall. Screw lightly in place using plasterboard screws. Cut another piece of board that fits the hole and stick in place using a small quantity of plaster mixed with water and PVA glue.

When the repair is dry procede as in "Repair a plaster wall".

Rendering before tiling

2007-01-01

Rendering before plastering

2007-01-01

Chip away all loose material and high spots and then give the entire area a good brushing with a stiff brush.
Wash the area and then paint with a weak solution of water and PVA.
Mix the render in the proportion 3 sand to 1 cement. Add a little washing up liquid to the mix. The mix should be soft without being runny.
Use the steel float to spread the render evenly over the prepared area and wait for a while. Then use the straight edge in a zig zag movement to remove excess render. Fill in the low spots and use the straight edge to check for level. Repeat zig zag until level.

When the render is firm but not dry, flick water onto the surface using the brush and then use the wooden float flat in a circular motion to complete the levelling process. Gently scrape around the edge of the render where it meets the old surface so that the render is approximately 2mm below the level. When you plaster the area this will allow the old and new to meet exactly.

Removing old paper

2007-01-01

Papering

2007-01-04

Replacing plasterboard

2007-03-11

Check for wires and pipes in the cavity above the plasterboard.
Cut out the damaged section using the padsaw.
Trim back to joists and screw on a length of batten flush with the joists.
Use the stanley knife to pare back the plaster around the repair.
Cut a piece of plasterboard to fit and screw on to the battens.
Stick scrim onto the joint between old and new plasterboard.
Plaster tha area as in "Repair a plaster wall".

Repairing holes in lath and plaster

2006-12-14

Applying ceiling or lining paper

2007-03-11

Estimated number of paper rolls

Total metres around room	8.5	12	14.5	17.5	20	23	25	26	28	30
Number of rolls required	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	10

Taking up a floor board.

2007-01-04

Lifting chipboard flooring

2007-03-21

Use the hammer and punch to drive the nails down through the chipboard as far as possible. If headed nails have been used try drilling out the head to make them easier to drive through.

Damaged board should be replaced.

Smoothing concrete floors

2007-02-12

Clean off the surface thoroughly so that it is free from loose material.
Scrub with a soap and water solution to remove grease and other contaminants.
Mix the compound to a wet soup like consistency.
Brush the floor with water to which has been added a small quantity of PVA adhesive.
Pour the compound evenly over the floor and use the float lightly to assist the levelling process.
For larger areas do an area to your left and then, leaving a narrow walkway, an area to your right.
Then fill in the walkway.
Allow plenty of ventilation to spped the drying process.

Replacing a rubber tap washer

2007-03-11

Turn off water and turn tap on to drain.
Unscrew or ease off the knob retaining screw cover.
Remove retaining screw.
Tap the knob gently to free from valve spindle.
Unscrew decorative cover.
Remove valve body.
Check the valve seat to make sure it is in good condition.
Replace washer or assembly.
Re-assemble tap using a little vaseline on the threads and joints

Cleaning out a trap

2007-03-11

Locate the trap under the sink or bath and have a container ready to catch water.
Hold the waste pipe frimly and unscrew the trap.
Make sure not to loose any rubber washers.
Clean out trap thoroughly and reassemble with a little vaseline on the threads and washers.

Replacing a leaking joint

2007-03-11

Replacing a burst pipe

2007-03-11

Turn water of at main and open all taps. Locate burst pipe and place a container underneath to catch drips. Cut the pipe just to one side of leak and then cut again approximately 4cms from the first cut on the other side of the leak.

Replacing a one gang socket with a two gang socket

2006-12-14

Replacing a ceiling rose

2006-12-14

Checking the cause of power outage

2006-12-14

Re-aligning a door

2006-12-14

Re-aligning a window

2006-12-14

Removing algae from the outside of structure

2006-12-14

Keeping your conservatory dry

2007-01-18

Replacing a tile or slate

2006-12-14

Replacing a corrugated sheet

2006-12-14

Checking underfelt

2006-12-14

Renewing a length of gutter

2007-02-20

Checking for drain blockages

2007-02-12

Checking drains for leaks

2006-12-14

Preparing the ground for paving

2006-12-14

Draining away surface water

2006-12-14

Cleaning and getting rid of weeds

2006-12-14

Laying a shed base

2006-12-25

Installing a greenhouse base

2006-12-14

Pruning trees

2006-12-14

Replacing a complete tap.

2007-03-13

Turn off water and turn on taps to drain down system.
Unscrew compression nut and free supply pipe.
Use tap wrench to unscrew tap retaining nut.
Remove tap and clean all surfaces.
Fit new tap and partially screw up retaining nut.
Lift tap and fill space between basin hole and tap thread with silicone sealer.
Tighten tap retaining nut.
Apply PTFE tape or jointing compound to the compression joint and tighten while firmly holding the tap body in place.

Heating your conservatory

2007-01-18